C10 wont crank

Rachel Beard • 26 February 2020
1 comment

I have a 1986 chevy c10 custom v6 4.3. it will turn over but will not crank. I have replaced...

starter, battery, distributer cap, ignition coil, rotor, wires, plugs, fuel tank, fuel pump, and rebuilt the carb 2 times.

im getting fuel, im getting spark, so i have no idea what else could be wrong. i cant pull obd1 codes because i have no check engine light. please give me some ideas.


I found this explanation , it might help you. 

This is actually a common problem in 70s and 80s C10s and no one ever get's the right answer. If no one has re-wired this truck in the past then turn your key to the run position and check to see if your turn signals and back up lights are working. IF NOT, then you also do not have 12 volts feeding the coil on top of the distributor. The C10s use electrical contacts mounted on the steering column and mechanically controlled by the key with a push rod. This is called an "Ignition Starter Switch" in the parts list (part numbers vary depending on "tilt" and "column shift" options. NAPA #ECH KS7066 for example is for a non- tilt application) The contact that feeds 12 volts to the coil get's it's voltage straight from the 12v lug on the starter solenoid. It makes contact with the switch output in both the start (pin B1 to I1) and run position (pin B2 to I1) one or both (B1 and/or B2) can be bad inside the switch. The output (pin I1) then goes to the coil, and also to the back up and turn light fuses - ONLY! The rest of the fuse box is fed by two other contacts in this switch (in the second connector - red #14 wires) from direct wires to the + lug on the solenoid, so all other systems will work properly) One further possible complication that makes it harder to detect if you are working alone is that you will have voltage to the coil, back up and turn lights in the run position but not in the start position. This is still a bad switch and it needs to be replaced. At $11 to $13 don't try to pull it apart and fix it - just replace it with a new one. The professional way to test is to use a volt meter and test for 12 volts on the pink wire (looks like pinkish purple to me) at the connector to the switch. Test both the "run" and "start" positions. No 12 volts in either or both positions = replace with a new switch.

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